Earlier this month I spent a Saturday with my good friends Chris Abbott and Mark Zagrodney at the annual Greater Toronto Train Show. A highlight for me was the opportunity to run a couple of Proto:48 models on an exhibition layout there. Click on the image, below, to read more on my Achievable Layouts blog…
I’ve written a feature for Railroad Model Craftsman magazine about my model of CNR RS-18 3640 (shown above). This is an Overland brass import from many years ago, which I tuned so it would run better. I then made some basic cosmetic changes and added DCC, sound (with two speakers) and lights. I then painted the model – including creating my own masks for colour separation.
You can read about the model in the October, 2019 issue of RMC. Click on the cover to visit the RMC website:
If you’re in Scotland on October 6th, Buzzard – the short dramatic film shot partially in my layout room last summer – will be enjoying its film festival premiere at the World of Film International Festival in Glasgow. It is competing against 16 other shorts from around the world.
I am super excited for director Joy Webster, co-writer Ben O’Neil, co-producer Lucas Ford, and the rest of the Buzzard cast and crew. And I’d like to once again thank those of you who joined me in backing Buzzard during its fundraising effort last fall. Your contribution helped complete this film, and helped market it to festival selection committees – so it wouldn’t be in Glasgow without you.
I wish Joy the best of luck at the Glasgow festival. I only wish I could attend…
(Progress on the shells: Knocking down the ridges on one of the trailers)
A big stumbling block was how to deal with the ridges that are a characteristic of 3D Printed items. Such items are built up in layers and there’s often a ridge where the layers are bonded together. This stratification was very much an issue on the 3D Printed shell for D-1 and its two trailers.
Sanding and surface primer is the usual approach to addressing this problem, but there’s a lot of shell to cover here, and the sheer magnitude of the project made it easy for me to say, “Hmm… I wonder what’s on TV?” I needed a better answer. And that answer came in the form of a big red box fitted with cocktail-length rubber gloves…
Ryan sets me up for a day of grit blasting
I visited my friend Ryan Mendell yesterday for an afternoon of hobby fun. (Stephen Gardiner, who designed the D-1, joined us too.) Ryan has been building patterns for resin casting and recently started his own hobby business, National Scale Car. He makes many of his masters using 3D Printing and was looking for a better way to deal with the ridges – and found the answer in the form of a grit blaster. I was curious about how effective it was, so I arranged a visit.
I worked on the three bodies for a couple of hours and I’m really happy with the results. The grit blaster (also known as an air eraser or media blaster) did a terrific job – especially in areas where it would be difficult to sand by hand, such as the recessed doors. In fact, I realized that if I focussed on those difficult areas, I could do the large flat sections of the shells with sanding sticks – or, even better, Ryan’s Tight Spot Sanders.
Ryan has a Paasche Air Eraser and a Blast Cabinet by Central Pneumatic (obtained from Harbor Freight). For the D1, I was shooting 220 aluminum oxide at 80 psi.
The before and after photos below show a definite improvement in the curved nose of the power unit:
The translucent nature of the 3D Print medium used makes it difficult to see the improvement, but running a thumbnail over the surface tells me the ridges are much less pronounced. I will finish sanding this shell using my Tight Spot Sanders then give it another application of Surface Primer and see how it looks. I expect this will be a “repeat as necessary until satisfied” operation, but I now have a strategy for tackling the project, which is the important thing.
Would I add a grit blaster to my workshop? Well, I do like tools, so the answer is “probably”. I don’t have the space right now – there are other things in the shop that must find their way to the curb – but I do have a suitable air compressor to power a blaster, and I’ve already thought of where I would hang the booth once I clear space for it. I would want to do something about muffling the noise of the air compressor, but a sound-insulated cabinet could take care of that.
Meantime, I envision another trip or two to Ryan’s before this project is finished. Thanks for the help, Ryan – the next beer is on me!
Here’s an awesome combination to add to any workshop:
I visited my friend Ryan Mendell yesterday. Ryan recently made the jump from hobbyist to hobby business owner by launching National Scale Car. His company’s focus is on rolling stock and detail parts for the HO craftsman kit / RPM market. (And yes, I’m talking to him about the potential for S scale kits and parts…)
But Ryan’s also a pattern-maker and he’s developed some cool tools to help him with pattern making and general model-building. He’ll offer some of these through his business – and his first tool is a small offering that’ll make a big difference:
It’s the Tight Spot Sanders. As Ryan notes on the National Scale Car website…
Sanding in corners or between details can be difficult using sanding sticks with foam cores. Tight Spot Sanders are the answer. They allow one to apply enough pressure while sanding flat against a surface. Ideal for sanding inside corners or between rivet strips on a boxcar when plugging holes.
Made from laser-cut acrylic with a precision machined finger dimple that makes them easy to grip and propel. Sanders can also be propelled with the eraser end of a standard pencil or other such implement.
The Tight Spot Sanders are sold as a set of three, including two pieces of self-adhesive emery paper (180 and 320 grit). Definitely worth the $5.00. (While you’re on the National Scale Car website, be sure to snoop around at Ryan’s other offerings, too.)
In the lead photo, Ryan is demonstrating a Tight Spot sander and is supporting the model on a Fret-Saw Table from Lee Valley. Clamped in a vise, this is a terrific work surface for supporting odd-shaped objects – like a car body with braces in it, as shown. I’m definitely adding one of these to the shop next time I visit the Valley of Lee…
I’ve decided to tackle a few projects that have been stalled, to see if I can make some progress on them. The CNR D-1 passenger train set is an example – I last posted about this almost three years ago, and it’s been collecting dust since then. There are some issues to resolve, and other projects called…
Yesterday, I decided to solve one of those issues: The drive train. I was most of the way there: The motor and power truck – both donated from an S Helper Service SW1 – were installed. But I needed a drive shaft to connect them. I dug through my stash of Northwest Short Line driveline components and found a mostly suitable shaft, plus universal couplings.
I say “mostly suitable” because I had no drive shaft material that would fit the universal coupling at the gear tower end of the drive. Everything was too small.
Fortunately, I have a lathe and making a bushing is an ideal project for it. I had some brass tube that fits the universal coupling, so all I had to do was bore it to accept the drive shaft. I chucked the tube into the lathe and got to work…
Boring the bushing:
Test-fitting the drive shaft:
Parting the bushing:
I cut a length of 2.0mm drive shaft, added the bushing and universal coupling at the gear tower end, added a universal ball at the motor end, and assembled the drive. Everything press-fits nicely – I experienced no slipping. (If I do in the future, I will add some Lock-Tite.)
I tested the drive with a 9v battery, running it in both directions while wiggling the truck about and turning it to its extremes, and all runs smoothly and quietly. I was worried about the extreme angle of the drive shaft – but that turned out to be a non-issue. Progress has indeed been achieved!
The next step is tackling the texture of the 3D Printed body shells. I’m visiting a friend later today – we believe we have a solution for this. Stay tuned…
I hate getting old. I used to have terrific eyesight. These days, not so much.
But rather than try to ignore the inevitable, I’ve decided to throw money at it instead. A few years ago, I bought awesome reading glasses, which also get a regular workout at the hobby bench. (They’re even slim enough to fit inside safety glasses.)
Yesterday, I took another step, and purchased a magnifying bench lamp. There are many of these on the market, but I picked a nice one offered by Canadian-based tool specialist Lee Valley because I trust the company to source quality products that are designed for people who build things – whether it’s furniture or F-units, carving or cabooses.
The lamp does not have a brand name – but given that the box is clearly printed with the Lee Valley catalogue number I suspect they’ve sourced this directly from a manufacturer.
The lamp is catalogue number 17J30.30 – and here’s what Lee Valley has to say about it:
This is an excellent magnifying lamp. Its array has 56 LEDs with a color temperature akin to daylight (6500 kelvin), making it well suited for task lighting.
The 5″ 3-diopter optical-grade glass lens focuses at a comfortable distance (3″ to 9″) for detailed work. Its spring balance mechanisms are fully enclosed and the lamp has a maximum overall extension of 47″.
The lamp head is adjustable for viewing angle, has an integral flip-up lens dust cover and comes with a 2-1/2″ capacity table-mounting clamp. The LEDs are rated to last 50,000 hours, equivalent to 5 hours per day for 27 years. UL/CUL certified.
To let you mount the lamp in a dog hole, stainless-steel bushings with a 3/4″ or 20mm outside diameter are available separately.
I also purchased the 3/4″ bushing and installed the lamp in a dog hole on my work bench.
The 3-diopter really makes a difference. In the following photo, you can see identical bottles of Vallejo wash both inside the lens, and outside to the left:
I’m really pleased with this purchase. While I hope I don’t have to use it all the time, it will certainly help with those fiddly operations, such as reading mouse print on decals or painting figures. In fact, I actually bought two of these lamps and installed the second one on my desk in my home office, where I frequently paint war-game miniatures while waiting for clients to call me back.
I’m not yet ready for an optivisor – and maybe with these lights, I can put that off for a few more years. If you have a Lee Valley in your area, check out this lamp: They’ll have one on display, and I bet you’ll add one to your “must have” list.
It seems my model railway is going to make it to Cannes before I do…
Longtime readers will recall that last summer, my layout room and workshop were used as locations for Buzzard – a short film co-written and directed by Joy Webster. Today, I learned from Joy that the film has been chosen as one of 16 to be featured as part of Telefilm’s Canada: Not Short on Talent market showcase at the Cannes Film Festival, May 20-23.
Joy and her co-writer Ben O’Neil will be in Cannes to represent the film as part of this showcase. (More information about the films that make up this collection can be found on the RDV Canada website.)
Congrats to everyone involved!
I visited my friend Pierre Oliver this week to take photos of my HO scale model of Southern Pacific 1010 for an article I’ve prepared for Railroad Model Craftsman magazine. (I’ve written previously about this model on this blog, but only in the most general terms as I knew I would be doing a construction article on it.)
There’s more about my trip to Pierre’s place on my Achievable Layouts blog – and you can read about it by clicking on this image of the SW1 earning its keep on his layout…
Enjoy if you visit!
I’ve been thinking about the snow melter equipment on my CNR 2-8-2 project ever since I installed the big wrapped pipe for it last week. I know that this pipe supplied steam to equipment that melted the snow and ice out of switches in yards. But beyond that, the photo of 3737 that inspired this build (shown above) doesn’t really make the fittings clear to me.
So, I did some research with the aid of Canadian National Steam! – the the excellent series of books by Donald R. McQueen, published a few years ago. In one of these, I found a photo of CNR 2-10-2 4033 with a much clearer photo of the snow melting equipment – a portion of which is shown here:
I’ve highlighted three important points with white arrows. First, there’s are two shut off valves on this pipe – one near each end of the pipe. Second, the front end of the pipe appears to be fitted with the same sort of steam line connection that’s used on passenger cars for steam heating.
With this information, I look another look at my subject photo and things became more clear:
First, now that I know what to look for, it’s easy to spot the wheel on the shut off valve just ahead of the steam dome. And while I cannot see the second shut off valve, at the front end of the pipe, I will assume it’s there and model one accordingly. Perhaps it’s hiding behind the handrail in this photo.
Finally, while I had spotted the steam line connection back at the start of the project, I didn’t know if there was anything more to the system at this end of the pipe: now, I know that this is all I have to model.
Precision Scale offers valves in a number of pipe diameters, including ones cored for these wrapped pipes. So I’ll be placing an order for those soon. And BTS makes the passenger car steam line connectors, which will work fine for this application. I’m already building the shopping lists…