St Williams house :: Details

St. Williams photo StW-House-11_zpsde78d0ff.jpg

I closed the year 2013 on a quiet note, detailing the white house at St. Williams.

A confab on the porch photo StW-House-13_zpscde28e0a.jpg

The above view shows a number of modifications I’ve made to the stock Finley House – an S scale kit from Branchline Trains. From the top down, these include:

* Sills added to window frames (strip wood) – all windows upgraded;

* Eavestroughs (built up from styrene angle) and downspouts (bent from styrene rod) – one across the front of the porch roof, plus one on either side of the main roof;

* A door knob and striker plate (fabricated from wire and styrene strip) – also added to the back door; and

* A more substantial porch, with framing below the deck and thicker legs (strip wood)

There’s a confab happening on the porch, involving four figures from Arttista. I used catalogue numbers 725, 743, 791 and 792 for this. They must be in deep discussion as they’re ignoring the traffic going by…
St Williams street scene photo StW-House-14_zpsea4c863e.jpg

Here are several additional details which can be seen in these four photos:
St Williams House - east photo StW-House-16_zpse12e5261.jpg

St Williams House - north photo StW-House-17_zps3b6cfe2b.jpg

St Williams House - west photo StW-House-18_zps61fecf00.jpg

St. Williams House - south photo StW-House-15_zps0395ad24.jpg

The main roof has the kit chimney, plus two vents for the plumbing stacks for the kitchen and bathroom. These were bent from brass wire and glued into holes drilled in the roof, then painted. Some weathering powders on the roof add a touch of rust below each pipe, and a touch of moss on the side sheltered by the tree.

The oil tank is kit 2104 from TractorFab. It’s a very nice laser cut kit that took about a half-hour to build. I’m not actually sure what it’s doing on this house – it wouldn’t be furnace oil because that would never flow in the winter from an outdoor, uninsulated tank like this. (Maybe that’s what the confab on the porch is about?) But it looks good, so there it is.

The electric meter is detail part S5024 from Wiseman Model Services. I added a taller stack made from wire. When I plant this house permanently, I’ll run the power line from this stack to the utility pole across the road.

St Williams photo StW-House-12_zps57c5629e.jpg

Planting the house on the layout will require building up the ground underneath it, adding a sidewalk to the roadway, adding a driveway next to the house on the side with the oil tank, and some landscaping to blend the house into its environment.

Finally, I I want to build a garage to complete this scene. Branchline has some lovely examples in HO. Unfortunately, they’re not offered in S. I might have to buy an HO version and use it as a study model to scratch-build my own…

13 thoughts on “St Williams house :: Details

  1. I would add support posts on both sides of the stair stringers otherwise your front beam would have one heck of a sag. They just expanded our back deck and added a roof and screen system — 6 x 6 posts on 2′ square footings equally spaced on 25′ long porch. Beam and joist system is 2 x 10.

    I like the activity on the front porch.

    • Thanks Bill. Good idea. I do plan to add low bushes around the foundation to help blend it into the landscape and that may eliminate the need to add more posts as they may not be seen. But I’ll keep it in mind.
      Cheers!

  2. Trevor–

    Furnace oil does indeed flow in the winter from an outdoor uninsulated tank. Just be sure to put the tank on a concrete pad so that it doesn’t tip over after it’s filled immediately preceding a heavy rain. I saw what happened with a formerly upright tank that had been installed on bare ground when I found myself at the end of a shovel on a rainy day at a relative’s some two decades ago. 🙁

    • I really didn’t think it would, Steve – but I’m happy to be proven wrong. A pad is an excellent idea and I can use one to strengthen the connection between tank and house.
      Cheers!

  3. You really are doing a terrific job of creating totally convincing scenes, Trevor! You have my admiration and thanks for publicly detailing your process and observations. It is a great service to all of us, your acolytes 😉

    • Hi Peter:
      Thank you. I’m trying for “convincing” so I’m glad you feel I’m achieving it.
      Acolytes? Oh I hope not! 🙂
      I consider myself a good modeller but not a great one. I just have no hesitation about sharing my work – putting it forth for comment. I don’t deserve acolytes – maybe “like-minded modellers” would be a better term?
      Cheers!

  4. The oil will not only flow into the house via the provided piping, it will also flow onto the lawn and the nearby verge of Lake Champlain should said piping leak…Environmental cleanup of even a couple of gallons can be frightfully expensive in such a location as “The Doll House” aka “The Dump On the Lake” ;-(

  5. A couple of readers got in touch privately to point out the excellent S scale garage offered (as a “carriage house”) by Mount Blue Model Company. Thanks for the idea!

    I have a few of this company’s O scale kits from my days modelling the Maine two-foot gauge railways. And they’re great kits. Unfortunately, the carriage house is too big for my needs. In addition, the Greek Revival style is rare in southern Ontario.

    In any case, scratch-building a garage will be a simple, fun project…

    Cheers!

  6. oil tank is kit 2104:
    I have one of these kits in my inventory. Same number, 2104, but built by GCLaser. Any construction tips? I’m inspired for my “Pricket’s House.” If you are not careful when packing up the AMB 2 story farm house after a show, you’ll get a lesson from the lighting rods why it’s The Pricket’s!
    Charles

    • Hi Charles:
      The most challenging part of this oil tank kit, I found, was to meet the several layers that form the core of the tank lined up and square.
      Each layer has a slot for the paper wrapper to start in, and I ended up building the core by fitting these slots over a thin piece of metal.
      I used the a dull single-edged razor blade but a piece of thin brass bar would also work.
      I applied glue only near the top of the core pieces, so I wouldn’t stick the core to the blade. When dry, I removed the blade then applied CA all around the surface of the core to lock everything together. A drop of Thick CA, spread about with a piece of scrap styrene sheet, did the trick.
      I really liked the kit and have a couple more of them, which I’ll build for other structures.
      Cheers!

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