BAOX 378

I finished my three-dome tank car over the past few days. British American Oil Company (BAOX) 378 is now in service:

 photo BAOX-378-Done_zpscibsj07u.jpg

The lettering really makes this car stand out, and for this I asked Al Ferguson at Black Cat Publishing to re-scale the BAOX set he offers in HO and O scale. Thanks Al – the decals are great as always!

I do not know if this car had the data on the ends of the tanks – but I don’t care. The decal sets included this information and I liked it, so I added it. It’s actually large enough to read in 1:64, too.

I sealed the decals onto the car with a matte finish from Alclad. This has become my go-to line of finishes – really lovely stuff. I then finished the car with washes of black-grey, brown and pale grey from the Model Color line offered by Acrylicos Vallejo. While not apparent in this photo, there’s also a bit of artists oil brushed on to represent wheel splatter.

This car – an Overland import – was a fun and easy project. Now it’s back to the kit stash to decide what to work on next…

14 thoughts on “BAOX 378

    • Hi Gene:
      I think you’ll love them.
      On a previous project, I had some silvering under a decal that – despite my best efforts – just would not go away. Finally, I resigned myself to living with the silvering and sprayed the matte finish.
      The silvering disappeared. I have never had a flat finish do that – ever.
      I’m sold on these.

  1. Hi Trevor,
    Very nice detail indeed! By the way,Hammonds Mill was a BA dealer. Pumps were located at end of siding. Use your imagination.


    • Hi Monte:
      I love finding out little details like that. Thanks!
      While my attention has been focused on other things, I’ve been noodling about with ideas to build a proper representation of the Hammonds Mill – and I’ll be sure to include the pumps.
      Hope you’re enjoying your summer…

  2. Very nice work, Trevor. I’m pretty sure the end lettering would have been on the car, although seeing it after a few years accumulated grunge might be another issue. Sometimes it’s hard to tell tank cars are lettered at all!

  3. Hi Trevor,

    I have 2 questions for you.

    We talked before about hazmat placards. Just wondering if you were still considering them or not?

    Also, when these cars are in a train, do these get marshaled properly, or just get added to the train?

    I’m no expert on operations in your era, but in modern times a dangerous car cannot be marshaled next to a locomotive, occupied caboose, passenger equipment, or loads prone to shifting that aren’t protected by a bulkhead. Your gondolas with pipe loads are an example of the latter.

    Nice work. Love the recent projects you’ve completed. Just throwing my $0.02 worth in about the marshaling.



    • There were rules, even in the 1940’s and 1950’s in Canada, about marshalling certain “dangerous” cars in a train.

    • Hi Walker
      Good questions. Yes, I’m still considering adding hazmat placards. The ones that came in my S scale lettering set were too large for the holders. I will look at the HO sets.
      In addition, the holders on these models are piece (possibly an etching) that includes the backing and the front frame as a single piece. Ideally, one would have the backing and frame as separate pieces, so that one could add the placard and then glue the front frame over top. I have a friend who knows photo etchers – I may ask him about doing a sheet of these for the S scale community, if there’s any interest.
      As Steve Lucas has noted, there are rules that govern the handling of dangerous cars and we do observe these rules. What’s more, I believe that the rules are even more restrictive for mixed trains. I will write about this in a new post.

  4. Etchers- if you take a look on the UK model forums (I use RM Web), you will find it easy enough to locate someone who does photo etching. It’s a far more common technique in UK modeling than North American, I have a oodle of etches from Judith Edge Models to assemble at some point…

  5. Re: the hazard placards (was “hazmat” a term in the ’50s?), I would think that trimming the placard decals either before application or even just before final application of setting fluid to expose the framing of the holder would be fiddly, but simpler than applying the holder etching. Thought that came as I typed, a decal for just the frame to apply over the placard decal – less fiddly yet, probably indistinguishable from a separate part except under magnification!

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